2002 - SCANDINAVIA
1996 - SCOTLAND & IRELAND
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2002 - SCANDINAVIA
Tallinn - St. Petersburg - Helsinki - Stockholm - Berlin - Copenhagen
Tallinn - St. Petersburg - Helsinki - Stockholm - Berlin - Copenhagen
Our ship was the NOORDAM, and it took us first to Tallinn, Estonia. The cobbled streets were a challenge! On a scale of 1-10, they were a 12 or 13! They were huge and uneven, but we walked 3 hours on them to see this beautiful city. There was a picture at every turn - the Town Hall, the Arches, and St. Nicholas Church. But by far the most outstanding was the classic onion-domed Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It was a breathtaking sight.
St. Petersburg, Russia
We had a city tour by bus that took us to museums, the Peter and Paul Fortress, the Aurora, the Winter Palace, and many statues. A stop at St. Isaac’s Cathedral. The sun was sparkling on the golden dome. We had heard that the inside was spectacular, but we couldn’t go in.
In the evening, buses took us to the St. Petersburg Hotel, both elegant and shabby, but with a GREAT folklore program. Best we have ever seen. A talented troop of athletic dancers jumped and whirled and danced and sang. Perfect precision, great choreography. The second half of the show featured jumping rope inside turning ropes. Incredible performance.
Helsinki, Finland
We took a taxi to the city center and toured the city on our own with Miriam and Gene. We browsed through the market stalls and bought a couple of pieces of jewelry. This is the Uspenski Cathedral. It is the largest Greek Orthodox church in Northern Europe.
Stockholm, Sweden
We had just a short day here, and again we took a taxi to the city and explored on our own. The waterfront was our choice of pictures.
Berlin, Germany, doesn’t sound like part of a Baltic cruise. But we boarded a train and 3 hours later arrived in Berlin. We had an excellent bus tour of the city, with many photo stops. This is the Berliner Dom, or the cathedral. It was damaged during WW II and has been restored.
The Brandenburg Gate was under construction and covered with canvas with life-size photos of what it would look like. We were allowed to walk through.
The double row of cobblestones shows where the wall used to be. You can stand with one foot in East Berlin and one foot in West Berlin.
Linden Boulevard is one of the best-known streets in Berlin. It was lined by many important buildings like embassies, churches, statues, government buildings, and hotels. And the beautiful linden trees gave shade to all. Then came the war - The buildings were destroyed, and the trees were fire-damaged or cut down for firewood. Today, the buildings have been rebuilt, the trees replanted, and once again, it is a beautiful city.
Aarhus, Denmark
We returned to our ship and continued our Scandinavian tour. We had a few hours in Aarhus for a self-guided walk. A canal runs through the city and is a popular place for outdoor dining. The glass exterior of the buildings gave interesting reflections.
Copenhagen, Denmark
Hans Christian Andersen was a Danish author. A prolific writer of plays, novels, and poems, he is best remembered for his fairy tales. He wrote 156 tales, and they were translated into 125 languages. Some familiar ones: Princess and the Pea, The Emperor’s New Clothes, Ugly Duckling, and The Little Mermaid. The Little Mermaid statue is better known than her story, which has some odd twists to it.
We left the ship in Copenhagen and checked into our hotel. We were on our own for the evening meal, and we settled for a small one. Smoky restaurant. We had an adequate meal while thinking of the people on the ship sitting at our table and the charming waiters bringing them delicious food. Back at our hotel, we had a little dessert in our room - an apple, a chocolate mint, and our own cappuccino coffee.
Tour of Northern Denmark
We had an all-day tour with beautiful weather and an excellent guide. We stopped at a fishing village, and our guide almost insisted that we try their local fish cakes. And they were delicious!
It was very picturesque with many boats and thatched cottages. Then we stopped at a castle that was the setting for the movie “Hamlet.” It was built in the 1500s and had many, many rooms. The next afternoon, we had a relaxing time in our hotel lobby with our new friends. We shared Danish pastries and memories of our good times on this trip. Tomorrow, the real world.
2002 ITALY - AUSTRIA - SWITZERLAND
2002 ITALY - AUSTRIA - SWITZERLAND
Mt. Viso, Cinque Terre, Pisa, Tuscany, Venice, Hallstatt, Salzburg, Matterhorn
Mt. Viso, Cinque Terre, Pisa, Tuscany, Venice, Hallstatt, Salzburg, Matterhorn
FAMILY TIME
We flew to Turin, Italy, with my sister, Rhoda, and there we visited her daughter, Lisa, and her family. They live in the northern part of Italy, which is quite mountainous. Their spacious house had balconies on 3 sides, so there were lots of fresh air breezes throughout the house.
One day, we all went on a picnic in the mountains. We drove for 45 minutes on a main highway, then turned off on a dirt road. We drove up and up with many hairpin curves until finally, the snow blocked our way. It was a nice spot for a picnic and then a hike. It was a fairly level path winding around the mountain. The parents took turns carrying the 2-year-old. The scenery was gorgeous with sunshine on the snow-covered mountains.
On the way home, we stopped in a tiny village so I could use their loo, “squat and smile,” but it was okay and clean. We drove past the hockey skating rink that will be used in the Olympics coming up.
MT. VISO
Another beautiful day, and we decided to go to Mt. Viso, the highest peak in that area. Lisa stayed home with 2-year-old Eliana, who wasn’t feeling well. Michael went to work. So that left just Al and me and my sister, Rhoda. We were leery about navigating Italian roads, which are notorious for being confusing. There are lots of route changes, but no route numbers! We made a wrong turn on the 1st round and got lost. We roamed around and eventually found our way. What a view of the snow-capped mountains as we followed the switchbacks up and up.
Small villages, stone buildings, flowering wisteria, and always the mountains. We drove as far as we could till the road was closed with snow. And there was a restaurant there! SO WE HAD A VERY ITALIAN LUNCH. It was a set menu with several courses: lardo (it looked just like lard), slices of meat appetizers, one cheese platter, sausage and mushrooms, pork spare ribs, beans, polenta (cooked cornmeal), pink sausage, and cake with chocolate sauce.
We had an almost perfect day weather-wise, and then the drive home. It is very difficult to navigate in Italy. We got lost several times, and when we finally got to Pinerolo (where Lisa lives), we didn’t have her address! Fortunately, Rhoda was able to remember how to get from a familiar grocery store to Lisa’s house.
TRAVEL WITH FRIENDS
Now Ed and Jan Davis joined the 2 of us. They had been with a tour group in southern Italy, and now they would spend 2 1/2 weeks with us. We had plans for central and northern Italy, Austria, and Switzerland. We had a nice rental car and reservations for places to stay, some new, some familiar.
We drove to the northernmost part of Italy, where it connects with Switzerland. We could see the Matterhorn looming up against a blue sky. The scenery was beautiful with flowering trees in bloom, fields of dandelions, pretty villages, and churches with tall steeples.
Driving back south, we found a log table and chairs for a picnic lunch with a view of the mountains and the lake. Next adventure: drive up the east side of the valley. Switchbacks went up and up with spectacular views looking down. At one place, The Rock, we stood on a precarious flat rock with drop-offs of hundreds of feet - quite scary. And then we drove up much higher to the village of Lod with its ancient buildings. We discovered another old village, Promiod, that was deserted except for a sleeping dog.
Exhilarating drive back down the mountain with all the switchbacks. Went from 1700 meters to 1100 meters in the valley. We figured we had exhausted all the scenery.
CINQUE TERRE
A famous group of 5 villages clings to the mountainside on the west side of Italy’s boot. They are called “Cinque Terre” or the five villages. They are connected to each other by hiking trails (no roads). A train runs between them at sea level. The villages themselves are very colorful and picturesque. We had reservations at a hotel in Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns. We found our hotel at the top of the village, and after unloading our luggage, we set out to explore. We walked down the steep, narrow street (no traffic) with many little shops and buildings piled on top of each other. We walked the cobblestone streets, sat at an outdoor table, and ate spaghetti with local pesto sauce.
The late afternoon sun on the colorful buildings was too perfect to pass up, so we went on a boat ride from our town, #1 to #5 Monterosso. It was a perfect setting with a view of the colorful buildings stacked up the mountainside. Probably one of the most photographed places. We took the little train back to our village, and we had a long, steep walk back to our hotel. Buses don’t run at night.
Today was the day we would hike the famous trail. It links all 5 villages. So we started out in Riomaggiore on a very easy, well-marked trail, #1. It was level and evenly paved, and there were great views of the sparkling sea. We arrived in Manarolo #2 and strolled around the little town. Started Trail #2 but were stopped after 20 minutes, “closed ahead- falling rocks.” So we turned back to Manarola and took the train to Corniglia (#3). It was very quaint and picturesque, with not as many shops. We found a nice outdoor restaurant for our lunch. And we watched a cat drink from a public tap.
Started trail #3 - labeled “2 hours and difficult.” It was all stones, vegetation, and woods, with no view of the sea. We were hot and sweaty, with not much water. We went about 20” and decided to turn back. Al went on alone. I gave him my hiking stick. We were glad we made that decision, for it was hard enough getting back to Corniglio. We took a green bus down the steep hill to sea level and took the little train to Vernazza (#4). We found a bench near the Blue Marlin where Al was supposed to meet us. Soon he came along and said it was the hardest trail he had ever hiked. And he did it in 1’20”. Ice cream for all. Train back to Riomaggiore and bus up the hill to our hotel. End of another packed, full day and near-perfect weather.
TOWER OF PISA
We had to include the Leaning Tower of Pisa. We parked just outside the city walls of Pisa. It was raining, so we dashed inside for a few pictures of the famous “Leaning Tower of Pisa.”
We made our way to the picturesque town of San Gimignano. We walked through the main shopping area, but it was raining, and there was a sea of umbrellas. Interesting shops, beautiful alabaster, and inexpensive. We bought a little elephant to add to our growing collection.
We found a historic, classic Tuscan house for our overnight. The yard had fragrant trees of mock orange, roses, irises, and lemon. That evening, we sat in the elegant dining room and enjoyed a typical Tuscan meal. Cheese, meat, and bread; peas and rice soup; potatoes, artichokes, and beef, cookies, and fresh fruit.
SIENNA
We drove through the hills with stone houses and churches and hilltop villas. We arrived at Sienna, one of the most well-known villages. It seemed incongruous to park in an underground garage and go up escalators to visit this ancient village. The “compo” or square had fountains, pigeons, and swarms of people. We walked to the Duomo, a great cathedral made of all black and white marble.
Sienna is famous for the horse race that takes place twice a year. It has lasted for 500 years, and the loyalty to horse and rider is fierce. Before the race, the horses are taken into the cathedral where the priest blesses them. If a horse leaves a deposit, it is considered good luck. Then, with great fanfare and parades, wheeling and dealing, the 10 horses, ridden bareback, race 3 times around the village square. The race lasts only 90 seconds and has been called the world’s most insane race.
VENICE
There were crowds of people, and it was raining. We walked to St. Mark’s Square to take pictures. Hundreds of pigeons were so tame that they would land on your head or outstretched hand.
And then, of course, a gondola ride on the canals. It was very relaxing as we went down the Main Canal and several smaller ones. We had experienced Venice!
AUSTRIA
Driving through Austria, we often stopped for pictures, especially when we had blue sky behind the snow-capped mountains and sunshine on the bright-green valleys. We drove up to a pass to go over the mountains, but the road was closed. So 25 km. back to the main road. How are we going to get over those mountains? Then Al spotted a train loaded with cars, leaving in 5 minutes. That’s the way over the mountain! He drove the car onto the train, then ran to join us in the passenger car. 20” ride through a tunnel, and we were on the other side. We loved Austria; it was a long day of driving, but very rewarding.
HALLSTATT
This is one of our very favorite places. We have stayed here before and always steer our friends to include this in their travels. It has been called the most beautiful town in Austria, and we would agree. The church steeple dominates the picture of old buildings reflected in the lake, and a mountain rising behind them. There were people living here 7,000 years ago because of the salt trade. Space is very limited because of the lake and the mountain. And there are lots of tourists. So cars are directed to bypass the town and find parking. (You are allowed a quick drive to your hotel to unload luggage.)
We stayed in Pension Simony, right next to the church, and the front door opened onto the village square. Our windows overlooked the lake just a few feet away. We took a boat ride across the lake and back. The morning light on the village and the reflections in the lake made an almost perfect picture
We ate in a restaurant next to our pension and loved their fish, freshly caught in the lake and cooked in a butter sauce. Best fish I’ve ever had.
We had a great night’s sleep with the windows open. The next morning, we walked around the village and took pictures of the church, the lake, the village square, and flowers cascading down ancient stone walls. The most photogenic place we’ve ever seen.
One of the most interesting (weird) features of Hallstatt is the Charnel House, or Chapel of Bones. The town is 4,500 years old, and with the lake before them and the mountain behind, they ran out of space in their graveyard. Their solution was to dig up the bodies after 12 years and put a new one in that space. The bones and the nicely decorated skulls are displayed in the Bone House.
Then to the salt mines. An 800-meter walk to the end of the village, then a funicular ride to the top of the mountain. Great view of the village and the lake. We were given a jacket and pants to put over our own clothes for protection. We joined a guided tour to the mine entrance and then walked through a narrow tunnel. We had frequent stops for explanations. Interesting facts about the salt era. The earliest salt mine in the world was here in Hallstatt, Austria, where salt was mined 7,000 years ago. This was about the time of Abraham in Biblical history. We felt like we were touching history as we walked through the passages and felt the rock walls. Water was piped into shallow rock basins and left to evaporate. The rocks were heavy with salt, and the water soon evaporated, leaving behind precious salt. The miners scooped it up, and it was shipped to key shipping ports in the ancient world. It is still a working mine. As a thrilling climax to our tour, we went hurtling down a 65-meter slide. It was the only way to get to the exit.
We drove north through the lake country, where the Sound of Music opening scenes were filmed. We could just see Maria dancing joyfully and singing “The hills are alive with the sound of music………”.
SALZBURG
We found Goldgasse, the narrow street off Residenz Place and Hotel am Dom, where we had stayed before. It was a sunny, blue-sky day, and we walked among cathedral spires, fountains, churches, and horse statues. All the scenes were familiar from the movie. We walked up many steps to Nonnberg Abbey and the gate where the children asked the nuns for Maria. We videoed all these scenes to enjoy again later. That was back in the day when video cameras were still quite large, and my husband carried it around his neck. It was also easy to turn it on accidentally and waste a lot of footage. Footage of Al’s hiking boots.
We walked across the river to Mirabell Gardens, where we had a view of the fortress and the city, beautiful flowers and fountains, and of course, the do-re-me steps.
We were running out of energy - a perfect time for a horse-drawn carriage ride. A nice man gave us a ride all over Salzburg, pointing out the main attractions. It was very relaxing and interesting.
Back in our hotel room, we were anxious to see the video we had taken. So we turned it on and, squinting in the viewfinder, we saw scene after scene of the beautiful buildings and the great view of Salzburg. And then we heard our conversation, my husband asking me if I had the right change for the WC… And then the video continues, hiking boot, cobblestone, hiking boot, cobblestone……then, wood floor, hiking boot, wood floor, hiking boot…” oh, no! He’s going to the men’s WC! “Sure enough, the video changed to tile floor, hiking boot, tile floor, hiking boot, and then it stopped. Turned off just in time.Then to St. Peter’s Rathskeller, a very elegant dining room in a 1,000-year-old building. It was the same place where we ate last December with the tour group. We were there early, before the musicians started. When the waitress came to get our drink order, we learned that plain water was not available; the only option was a small glass of mineral water for 2.70 euros. No way. Ed and Al slipped out and went back to our rooms (close by). They brought back bottles of water in their backpacks. Then the concert started, a string quartet with 2 singers, all in Italian. Six short pieces, then our first course was served: delicious soup with cinnamon flavor and bread. More music. Main course: chicken, beans, and fancy potatoes. Lots of water. More music. Honey-flavored ice cream. Very enjoyable evening.
We left Salzburg and had a beautiful drive through mountain scenery. We drove down the Zillertal Valley to Mayrhofen, looking for the Gasthaus Landenhof. We got lost several times. We came to a place where we could actually see it, but it was accessible by a footbridge over a stream. There was a group of young people just across the bridge, and we asked one of them to come get in our car and drive us to our destination. Finally!
We drove to the end of the valley and then hiked up to a waterfall. The scenery was spectacular as we rode the cable car up to the 1st station. We walked through the snow to find a spot for our picnic lunch and appreciated our hiking sticks.
One more adventure for the day: a short train ride to Zell am Ziller. It is a charming little town, and we’ve stayed there in a chalet high above the town.
We got on the motorways and headed west through Innsbruck. But we were talking and not paying close attention to the road signs. Our motorway had a split - one went south to Italy. The other continued west. In a few minutes, we were at the toll gate at Bremerton Pass, going into Italy! Nothing to do but go through the tunnel to the first exit and get turned around.
We drove up to Warth and through our very favorite “Valley of the Cow bells.” And then into Switzerland through the green hills of Appenzell and overnight in our favorite Gemsle hotel.
We drove into the mountains, now covered with snow, and it was very cold. The pass over the mountains was closed for winter. The alternative was to put our car on a train and go through the long Furka tunnel. We emerged in the beautiful Rhône Valley with mountains on both sides.
Destination Zermatt, and this time driving instead of by train. We checked into our favorite Testa Grigia, and our room had a view of the Matterhorn. There was fresh white snow on the mountains, so we were anxious to go up higher. We took the Gornergrat train to the summit station and stepped out into glaring ice and snow and a stunning view of the Matterhorn!
We went on a long cable car ride to Furi. It was sunny and picture-perfect with the Matterhorn directly across from us.
Our time in Switzerland was almost over, and on our last day, we drove to the westernmost part of the country. We stayed in the little village of Bourg St. Pierre, population about 200. The next day, we drove through the Great St. Bernard Tunnel into Italy. It was just a few miles to the hotel where we had made reservations many days ago. It was very close to the airport for our flight home. End of a memorable trip.
2003 - SOUTH PACIFIC ANNIVERSARY CRUISE
2003 - SOUTH PACIFIC ANNIVERSARY CRUISE
TAHITI
To celebrate our 50th anniversary, we went on a cruise of the South Pacific. We started in Tahiti, an island made famous by the movie “South Pacific.” We visited the Museum of Tahitian History, where there was a model of the sailing ship “Bounty.” To think that our ship was docked in the very same port as the Bounty! We had with us the “Bounty Trilogy” (all 3 books in one), and we both read the whole book on this trip. This included the well-known “Mutiny on the Bounty.”
On a walk around the deck one sunny afternoon, we met another couple. We stopped to visit and found their name was Moore also, and they were celebrating their 50th. We planned to eat dinner together that night. We really enjoyed the time together and decided to eat together every evening. When the head waiter greeted us, he would say, “Table for 4 Moore’s, right this way.”
We took advantage of the hot tub, pool, and deck chairs, and we did a lot of reading.
That evening, a comedian/juggler entertained us by riding a unicycle and juggling 5 ping pong balls in his mouth.
MOOREA
The next morning, we were in the harbor of Moorea. The scenery was most dramatic: towering mountains in various shades of green, light and shadow, blue sky, and turquoise water. Low clouds lifted as the sun dominated the sky.
A tender took us to shore for a ride in an AC bus. We drove up many switchbacks to a fantastic overlook of the island. The driver pointed out many kinds of trees and fruits, including taro and breadfruit. We stopped at a pineapple plantation for a free sample of very fresh pineapple juice. Flowers were growing everywhere, wild and beautiful. The driver picked a red hibiscus and put it behind my ear.
At dinner that evening, the ship got underway as we were enjoying mahi-mahi fish and crème brûlée. The ship stores were open for shopping, lots of tempting bargains-
BORA BORA
We had a circle tour of the island on “Le Truck.” Open windows, no AC, but it was a fun experience. We stopped at the outdoor dye shop where ladies demonstrated creating the patterns, drying the fabric, putting designs on them, and then how to wear them as sarongs.
This peak is called “Bali Hai” because some scenes from the movie “South Pacific” were filmed here.
At dinner, the waiters brought a chocolate torte, an anniversary special, to the 4 Moores and sang to us. A nice little touch to our anniversary cruise.
DAY AT SEA
Relaxing day on the ship with various activities. Sit on the deck and read, go swimming, play Trivial Pursuit, watch a movie, watch fruit and vegetable carving, or just enjoy the view of the vast Pacific Ocean. A program on the Bounty was very interesting, they showed excerpts from the original movie. It was also the Formal Night, everyone dressed in their best, and the photographer took pictures. Special menu: Chateaubriand and Mahi-Mahi. And the usual appetizers, main course, and rich, delicious desserts. The evening program featured “Magic and Illusion.” He did an absolutely impossible trick. He tore a newspaper into pieces and then put it back together again!
CHRISTMAS ISLAND
This island is small, and only 300 people live there. Most have never been off the island. They live in shacks and tin-roof hovels, but the people are healthy and happy. We were greeted by singing and dancing by the women while the men played percussion instruments. And then the little children, dressed in green island outfits, sang, “One, two, buckle my shoe.” It was just too cute.
Christmas Island’s claim to fame is that it is the first place in the world to see the sun rise. This is because the International Date Line puts them as the first civilization west of that line. There is some talk of changing the name to Millennium Island.
HAWAII - Big Island
A bus tour took us to the Kilauea volcano. The steam vents were very impressive. There was a crater within a crater. As we walked on the cinders, we could feel the heat of the volcano through the soles of our shoes. We were glad to get out of there!
MAUI
Our port was Lahaina, the picturesque city with the Pioneer Inn, Old Courthouse, and the huge banyan tree. It covers an entire city block and is 150 years old. We rented a car so we could do our own thing instead of a tour. We had driven the famed Hana south coast on a previous visit. So, we thought we’d try the north coast this time. The road became very narrow with switchbacks and great views of the ocean and coastline. In Old Kahakuloa, there was a small settlement of houses and a picturesque church. Just beyond was a blue shack and a sign, “Banana Bread Best on the Island, free samples.” Of course, we stopped; it was time for lunch. We bought a small loaf of bread, still warm, for $5. “Julia” says she bakes 600 loaves a day! With cold cans of guava juice, it made a nice lunch.
On with our adventure, I consulted the map to see where we were. The map said, “Do not drive rental cars beyond this point.” And we were already past that point! We drove on. Came to a very nice art gallery featuring products made of koa wood. Nice rocking chair for $9,200. The little town of Paia had a general store and a sandy beach. We found a place to change our clothes and had a short dip in the ocean. We had a leisurely drive across the valley with a view of Haleakalā. And then back to Lahina. The car rental place did not ask where we had been.
KAUAI
This is known as the Garden Island, also the rainy island. Both were true. Again, we had a rental car and drove to the famous, beautiful Waimea Canyon. It was raining with very poor visibility. Drove back down to Kekaak, the westernmost shopping center in the U.S. Decided to drive back up the canyon again, and at one overlook it did clear, and we had a very brief view of the beautiful canyon. On the way back down, we counted 180 curves in 18 miles.
OAHU
At the airport, they asked for volunteers to give up their seats because the flight was overbooked. We decided to do it. We only had to wait 5 hours for the next flight, and we were put in first class. A nice end to our anniversary cruise.
2003 - DANUBE RIVER CRUISE - Bucharest to Budapest
2003 - DANUBE RIVER CRUISE - Bucharest to Budapest
2003 - DANUBE RIVER CRUISE - Bucharest to Budapest
Also known as the “Bus Cruise”
Also known as the “Bus Cruise”
Grand Circle had already notified us of a change in plans, the Danube River level is so low that our boat won’t be able to travel much of it. We’ll go by bus instead, not our favorite way to travel. Maybe spend 2 or 3 nights on the boat. Traveling with us are our friends Miriam and Gene Kamp, Ed and Jan Davis. We were all in for some unusual travel.
We started in Bucharest, Romania where we stayed in the luxury Marriott for 2 nights. We were entertained by a Gypsy band with outstanding musicians. The pan flutist was unbelievable; we clapped and clapped. The meal was high-class cuisine, and then a dance troupe joined the musicians and did several numbers of whirling, stamping, and jumping. We really enjoyed the show!
We saw Revolution Square, where Ceaușescu addressed the crowds. It was his last speech before the people revolted, and he was executed.
The tour of the People’s Palace was most impressive. It is the 2nd largest building in the world and very ornate with marble columns, sweeping stairs, and chandeliers. It was built by Ceaușescu in the ‘80s using 40% of the GNP. Another palace was built nearby for his wife. The view down Union Boulevard is longer, by design, than the Champs Élysées in Paris.
Train to Constanta
A special train just for us, it was very deluxe as it had been used exclusively by the president. It took us to Constanta, right on the Black Sea, but we had only 90 min. to enjoy the sandy beach and refreshing water. Too soon, we were back on the train, then the bus.
After a very long day of travel, 9 hours, we finally got to our ship. Our cabin was so nice, new and spacious, but we will be leaving in the morning, 13 hours on the ship instead of 7 days. We’ll have a bus tour instead.
Arbanasi
We visited a very old village church. The walls inside were completely covered with painted icons. They told the whole story of the Bible. We sat in curved seats around the perimeter of the nave while 4 singers, dressed in black robes, sang several numbers. You can imagine the acoustics!
Sophia
The AC bus felt good for our 4-hour drive to our hotel. Our room in the Sophia Hilton was very large and luxurious.
Alexander Nevsky is a stunningly beautiful cathedral. We had already seen a cathedral named for Alexander Nevsky in Tallin, Estonia. He was an outstanding leader in Russian history to have several ornate cathedrals named for him.
All-Day Bus Ride
It was 200 miles to Belgrade, and it took all day. We reached the border with Bulgaria and passed through customs, and we were in no man’s land. Then we got to the Serbian border. A man came on board and collected all our passports. They were returned with a stamp of entry. After 2 hours and a whisky bribe, we were through. The next part of our trip was grim. After passing through a scenic gorge area, we stopped at a run-down gas station. Only one toilet for 4 busloads of people, and it was dreadful. I’ll spare the details. The men ran to the woods. Then they passed out box lunches: 2 long rolls filled with tiny amounts of cheese, cucumbers, and a trace of meat. A pear and an apricot. Were they safe to eat? Two more hours, and we stopped at a modern rest stop. Grand Circle treated us to chocolate cake and coffee or tea.
An elderly lady in our group had trouble climbing the steep stairs into the bus. One day, I asked her how she was doing. She replied, in an accent, “I’m trying to think what sin I have committed to deserve this punishment.”
Belgrade
We were glad to get to our hotel room, but another change of plans. It seems the Danube River is too low, and so we’ll have to drive upriver to Salt. We crossed into Hungary and drove miles and miles to the little town of Salt. And then the bus driver got lost. After several turnarounds on a narrow road, we finally spotted the River Aria! Another night on our ship! And then some good news, we’ll sail into Budapest at night!
We stood on the cold, windy top deck and took pictures to our heart's delight! Castle Hill, St. Matthias Church, Chain Bridge, and Parliament, all brilliantly lighted.
2003 - Drive Along the Danube
2003 - Drive Along the Danube
with Ed & Jan Davis
with Ed & Jan Davis
BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
Our Danube River “cruise” ended in Budapest. With our friends, Ed and Jan Davis we rented a car for a drive through the countryside. First, we enjoyed a walking tour of Budapest. The magnificent Parliament building is right on the Danube River. It has a very impressive interior with 700 rooms, 160 stairways, 49 million bricks, 40 kilos of gold, and 10 courtyards. The flag flying between the building and the river is a reminder of the uprising in 1956 when Russian tanks came into this area, 125 Hungarians were killed by firing squad in the grassy area where we were standing. The flag has a hole in the middle where they tore out the hammer and sickle.
We walked to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the largest in Hungary, and it rises high above the other buildings. It is 96 meters high. We took an elevator to the top of the cathedral for a panoramic view of the city. It is a popular place for weddings. We saw a wedding party leave as another arrived.
PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC
Our guesthouse was near a tram stop, and it was only a 10-minute tram ride to the Old Town. We wandered around the crooked streets looking for the Astronomical Clock. It was built in 1410 and is the oldest working clock in the world. We joined the waiting crowd and saw the clock strike the hour. That set in motion the 12 apostles marching in and out of the two doors at the top and Satan striking a big gong. A figure standing at the side with money bags representing greed, a man looking in a mirror representing vanity, a skeleton representing death, and a mandolin player representing pleasure and joy. The clock also shows the position of the sun and moon, the time of sunrise and sunset, the holy days of the Christian religion, and the 12 zodiac signs, and if you watch closely, you might even be able to tell the time of day. You have exactly 45 seconds to take this all in.
Our next priority was Charles Bridge. It is one of the most famous bridges in Europe with its 12 stone arches and 30 statues. All of them are of a religious nature, often relating to saints. We walked slowly across the bridge, reading about each statue. Some date back to 1537. Many of the original statues were damaged by vandalism, floods, or enemies. Each of those statues has been carefully replaced by a replica. The most popular statue is St. John of Nepomuk. It is said that rubbing the statue will bring you good luck, and so there are many shiny spots on the statue where people have rubbed it.
DRESDEN
Knowing that this city had been destroyed by Allied bombing in the last days of the war, we were amazed to see this magnificent city rebuilt. Most impressive was the Frauenkirche, the symbol of the city. While the rest of the city was rebuilt, the cathedral was left in ruins for 50 years. Then, funds were donated by many of the Allies, and reconstruction began. Many of the blackened stones had been salvaged, and with a computer, they were identified and placed back in their original places next to the new white stones. In England, the son of one of the pilots who bombed Dresden created a gold orb and cross. It will be placed at the top of this beautiful church.
REGGENSBERG
We paused to take a picture of the bridge at Regensburg. It is 800 years old, and its 16 stone arches make it very distinctive. It escaped the bombing of WW II.
MAUTHTHAUSEN
This was a former concentration camp. There is a memorial to the “Stairway of Death.” Prisoners worked in the stone quarry below, then had to run up the steep rock steps carrying 100# rocks. Many fell and died. Sometimes the guards would throw rocks at them as they struggled up the steps.
MELK ABBY
As we approached the town of Melk, we paused to take a picture. The abbey looks as big as the town itself. The place almost defies description. We made our way through many rooms and were impressed with the library. The walls were lined with leather-bound books, top to bottom. In all, there were about 100,000 books! Some were actually handwritten.
THE BRIDGE AT ANDAU
On the narrow road leading to the bridge, there are statues in memory of the Hungarian refugees who crossed here to freedom. It’s just a footbridge over a small stream that marks the border. It was very moving to be there and think of the many who passed over the bridge to freedom.
We were enjoying the leisurely countryside, and then we realized the time we had to turn in our rental car by 5 pm. Or keep it another day, which we couldn’t do because we had a morning flight back to the U.S., so we hightailed it back to Budapest. Missed the bypass and had to drive straight through the busy city traffic. We were within one block of the return place, but it was down a one-way street. So, Al let me out, and I ran to the office before it closed at 7:00. “Please, our car will be here in minutes.” They were very nice and accommodating, and we made it (7 min. to 7). Such are the challenges of traveling/driving in Europe.
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